Fagan
Fall Winter 21/22
A convulsão social e económica vivida em Inglaterra a partir do fim da década de 70 motiva a incursão de Maria Gambina por territórios turvos e solitários de inquietude e incerteza, já não instigadores de disrupção punk mas agora permeados por delicadeza e movimento.
Uma silhueta volumosa e ritmada é harmonizada com detalhes deslocados, com picos metálicos e layers plissados. Neste contraste projecta-se a frustração perante a injustiça, a desilusão sistemática que atravessa todas as crises, incluindo a contemporânea. Neste contraste projecta-se ainda uma linha narrativa que a criadora tem vindo a explorar no seu trabalho mais recente, e que entretece a Construção de Chico Buarque (P/V 19) e as palavras "Ganância", "Merda" e "Mentira" inscritas nas sweatshirts do último Outono/Inverno. Trata-se, em todos os casos, de reclamar uma voz.
Riscas construídas por união de coloretes e camadas de flores cortadas a laser manifestam uma luta interior constante mas serena. Duplo gabardine desenhado e duplo feltrado protegem cetim em riscas gráficas e voile plissado, confortados por malhas orgânicas e recicladas.
As cores são o preto, com apontamentos gráficos em vermelho e branco e camuflados por verde azeitona.
A person standing in an industrial, abandoned building, wearing a long brown coat, black shoes, red socks, a black knit hat with a pom-pom, and holding a black bag with red and gray design.
Person standing outdoors at night, wearing a long brown coat, red pants, and black shoes, holding a black quilted bag with red graffiti-style artwork.
A person wearing a black, shiny textured hat with pom-poms, a black turtleneck, a striped sleeveless top, a black skirt, red socks, and black textured shoes, standing in a dimly lit industrial or warehouse setting.
Person walking through a dark, abandoned industrial space wearing a striped vest, black pants, and a fuzzy black hat.
A woman in a black and red striped shirt, black pleated dress, and black hat with feathers, holding a black umbrella with ruffled fabric, standing in an industrial setting with a textured stone wall and wooden floor.
Person holding a black handbag with large black flower appliques, wearing black pointed shoes with red accents, standing on a wooden surface.
Woman wearing a black, fluffy beanie with a spiked feather decoration and a striped black and red shirt.
Person in a long brown trench coat, striped skirt, black shoes, red socks, and knit hat, walking outdoors at night.
A person with pale skin, short light hair, and a serious expression, standing inside an old, rustic wooden building, wearing a black sweater, black beanie, striped skirt, and black shoes, with one hand touching a weathered wooden door.
A woman with pale skin, blonde hair, and a, black knit hat looks off to the side with a contemplative expression, arms crossed, wearing dark clothing, background with mixed dark textures.
A person with fair skin, light-colored eyes, and freckles wearing a black knit hat and a red and black striped neck gaiter, partially obscured by a wooden surface, with a background of curtains and a wall.
A person with pale skin and short, curly blond hair stands in front of an empty wooden bookshelf, wearing a black textured outfit and black shoes, in a room with greenish patterned wallpaper and a red carpet.
A person with short, curly hair wearing a black dress with sheer shoulder details stands with their back to the camera, facing an empty wooden bookshelf in an empty room with wood-paneled walls.
A woman with light skin and curly blonde hair wearing a black textured garment with floral embellishments.